This readme is the same for 17, 17L, 19, 19X, 26, 26X, 26XX, SPACEMANWON 19, SPACEMANWON 17, BIGGUS DICKUS 17L, LARGE DICKUS 17, MEDIUM DICKUS 19, and PERFECTLY AVERAGE DICKUS 26.

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website can be found at origamifaceshield.com chairmanwon.com or chairmanjuan.com

Print these files rails up or down for best results. I know you see me printing at 45 degrees, that is because I print so many frames that faster cleanup is more important to me than how long they last. My actual home defense printed Glock is printed rails down.

Microtexture should only be used on FDM printers with PLA, if you are using a resin printer or nylon filament use the no microtexture version. Microtexture & no microtexture options are included in all files EXCEPT for the DICKUS builds which are no microtexture only.

The only changes that you need to make vs the normal FMDA profile are as follows

Support X/Y Distance: 1.3mm (stops Cura from supporting stipples) Use tree supports instead of normal supports (if you are suffering from very long slice times switch back to normal supports, you will waste material compared to trees but the print will be fine) Enable Z hop on retract

If you are using Prusa Slicer make sure you have Detect Thin Walls set to off

I have tested this frame using ESUN PLA+ using the settings in the FMDA README file which I have pasted below.

Nozzle: 0.4mm Layer Height: 0.15mm Temp: 225-230/60C Infill: 100% Supports: On/full - use a close support interface gap. Your interface gap should not be larger than 0.15mm unless you know what you are doing with your setup. Cooling fan: 20% normal, 50% on bridges. Off for the first 10 layers. Keep the fan low to prevent warp.

All other settings can/should be left as default or whatever you know works best with your printing setup